On my third real day of my trip, continuing on the Dingle Peninsula, I decided to visit the Gallarus Oratory, an early Christian church dating from somewhere between the 6th an

d 9th centuries - now, that's history! Both the stone house and the little church were charming. The church was especially unusual, and the land surrounding it was a combination of both pastoral and bleak, if you can picture that.

As I entered the church and stood inside, I had images of life so many years ago, and thought of how comparatively
new everything is back home...
I had assistance from a gentleman working there who at first seemed quite standoffish, but turned out to be so helpful with directions, even calling my next hostel to help me book my bed for the night. At this point in my trip, there were not many people around and it was pretty isolated, very beautiful and beginning to rain.
I traveled on to Ballydavid, still on the Peninsula, where many of the road signs were only in Gaelic, and found my home for the night, a village consisting of a church, a small shop, and my hostel, run by the shopkeeper, Sioban. This was the spot where I decided to splurge and took a private room, 25 euros. Here, most of the people I met were actually Irish, and such an eclectic bunch. The odd little man up there to study Gaelic for the week. Two older women from Dublin traveling and visiting old churches and ruins, somehow reminding me of times past

. And eleven teens from Cork, part of a youth group, with their leader, Ger. The kids were wonderful! Warm, friendly, inviting. When some of the girls heard that I was from LA, they were in awe - I was an instant celebrity for the night. I was immediately asked to join them for dinner, which I gladly accepted, having planned on packaged soup mix myself. They'd been together for 7 years and were a tight group. So polite and helpful! It was amazing. They helped cook, set up, clean up afterwards, with no squabbling. Later on, I helped them make Bread and Butter Pudding, hot and yeasty, served with custard, a creamy sauce-type topping. Ummm....
After watching them fashion silly hats from pipe cleaners, (again, I was impressed - can you picture our 18 year olds doing this?) I finally excused myself - they were planning to stay up all night and, sorry, no way I was going to do that!
Next morning, after tea and freshly made scones from Sioban, I again hit the road in the rain. Slowly, made my way away from the coast and into the center of the country, stopping in the little town of Adare for a walk in the rain and a bowl of hot soup, passing Limerick, driving through Tipperary, and finally arriving at Cashel for the night. It was a truly picturesque town with the famous Rock of Cashel (I was expecting a big rock, but learned that it meant a castle). I found the hostel easily, met a sweet young man working there, very Irish (sounds silly, huh?) and yet, born in Queens, NY! He was, again - I know that this is becoming redu

ndant, but it's true - so friendly and warm. Had some bread and cheese and wandered out. It was Heritage Week in Ireland, so there were some activities around. I saw a great award-winning animated film about The Book of Kells. Walking back, I saw a crowd on the sidewalk, heard music, and after a moment's hesitation, entered the pub and ordered a pint. It was packed, so I found a corner, nursed my ale, and, my favorite thing, people-watched. And ended up talking to the people around me, a young couple with their little girl, and a group of kids out for the evening. I love that the pubs are filled with people of all ages and everyone is accepted and welcomed. A little old lady (no, not me) came in by herself and guys rushed to help her get someplace to sit.
Returning to the hostel, I met tr

avelers from Spain and Germany, and my roommates for the night, a father and his 16-year-old daughter from Australia (that was a first), in Ireland for a year with their family of 7, including 5 kids. They were great. He was a historian working up at the Rock as a guide, so told me all about it and also gave me some helpful info to help me prepare to teach Victorian England in school this year.
The next morning, after meeting a harried Canadian family of 4, with 2 kids under 5 years old, strangely the least friendly hostelers I'd met in my travels , I walked up a tranquil path to visit the Rock. There was no one else there and it was fresh and gorgeous. I made my way up the

hill to the castle, paid my admission, and joined a group waiting for a guided tour by a very knowledgeable and - yep - friendly docent. The place was incredible. St. Patrick had been there and the history, a royal castle from the 4th or 5th century, then handed over to the church in the 11th century to prevent rivals from claiming it, was actually really interesting. There is also a graveyard, still in use by families whose names were entered in a register by the 1930's.
Taking the advice of my hostel host, I went to a great shop, a butcher of sorts, and bought some real food for lunch - a cooked chicken, prepared salad, and Irish brown bread - delicious... Since it was raining, I ate back in the cozy hostel kitchen.
This was my last r

eal day of my trip, the next would be a travel day, so I took my time, heading east towards where I'd take my ferry early the next morning. I stopped in Ki

lkenny on the way, a town that I'd heard about, a found it to be really nice, a bit bigger than the towns I'd been in the past few days, but not a real city, so not overwhelming. Strolled around, went to the Kilkenny Castle, crowded with lots of visitors - free entry for Heritage Week - so I left quickly. Spotted this great looking men's shop, looked in a few bookshops - can never resist those. Headed to Wexford for the night, on the east coast, a small harbor city, promptly got lost several times trying to find the hostel, even with directions from no less than 3 different people - very frustrating, especially when you have to go to the bathroom! (I'm still trying to get used to asking for the toilet when I need to go...)
Dinner, (my leftovers) Germans and Australians, a read, and to bed.
Uneventful trip home, pleasant ferry ride sitting opposite an English family with 2 very active cute kids, and HOME! I only made one wrong turn at the end, but managed to make it. Honestly, I think that Cardiff is in many ways more difficult to negotiate by car than the route to Ireland!